Bread & Brew: Beast's Pomeroy dishes on new book, choices behind her career

Forgive Naomi Pomeroy if she’s a little frantic these days.

She’s gearing up for a national book tour to promote the launch of her first cookbook, “Taste & Technique,” attending local parties, speaking events and book signings at Feast Portland and elsewhere this weekend, and between all of that, managing her 25 employees at her two businesses, Beast restaurant and Expatriate bar.

But she wouldn’t have it any other way.

“It’s important to feel like I’m putting forward 100-percent effort into ... never resting,” says Pomeroy, a James Beard Award-winning self-taught chef of 20 years who’s considered a rock star in the Portland food arena. “I love the process of writing a book. I already want to write another one. I had a blast.”

Her new book — co-authored by writer Jamie Feldmar and about three years in the making — is a 400-page hardcover, with a photograph for each of the nearly 140 recipes.

She had the photos shot in her own home and insisted on including images of every dish, cost be damned, from the Milk-Braised Pork Shoulder to Caramelized Delicata Squash.

Equal parts instruction and inspiration, the book is an ode to the cookbooks she spent reading when she was growing up as a kid and later into adulthood, when she chose cookbooks over cooking TV.

The Tribune had a long, far-reaching conversation with Pomeroy last week that revealed a lot about her book, career choices and her thoughts on the Portland restaurant scene of late. Here’s what she had to say:

Tribune: Why do a cookbook when you’re already cooking on all burners, so to speak?

Pomeroy: The book is a personal project that’s much more grounded in a feeling of giving back, sharing. ... There are some chefs who don’t really want to share their secret recipes with other people. I’m super into sharing my secret recipes (a menu of which changes every two weeks at Beast). I generally want people to feel at home they can execute as well as restaurants can. I don’t think it’s going to replace coming to a restaurant — that’s a whole ‘nother experience to come out to eat — to be taken care of, not do dishes, be social.

Tribune: How did you select the recipes?

Pomeroy: It was never going to be the Beast book. I want to live longer and in a larger format than just being known for my restaurant. I like to be thought of as someone who gave accessiblity to people. ... It was about making the list of things I felt people should know how to do, like roasting bones properly to make stock, or some recipes that were important to me as a child, like souffle.

Tribune: You’ve created such a giant persona for yourself through your appearances on “Top Chef,” “Knife Fight” and “Iron Chef.” What prompts you to do these kinds of things?

Pomeroy: I would never want to do another competiton show like that. It’s more stressful than it even looks. At that point I felt it would be good for the brand, and it has been. (On “Top Chef”) I went nine of 10 episodes. It’s good for hometown spirit. People still come in and say “We were rooting for you.” It makes me feel like they got to know me, which is both good and bad. My employees say “I thought you were going to be really mean because of how you were on TV.” It’s edited so heavily.

Tribune: What’s the latest at Beast, and what’s next for you?

Pomeroy: We’ve relaxed our policies on not making substitutions. If you tell us you need things in advance, we’ll do our best to accommodate them. It’s not a super meat-heavy menu — that’s never been true. There were rumors about me opening a Japanese-inspired place downtown. I pay attention to what’s happening. Thirty-five restaurants opened in Portland between June and August — they’re not all going to make it. Starting January, all businesses are required to pay salaried employees for overtime hours. We’re going up and up and up with the minimum wage. And it’s going to have to be reflected in prices.

Tribune: Does this mean you won’t open a fast-casual spot, like the trend seems to be?

Pomeroy: You can definitely open five places. John Gorham (of Toro Bravo, Tasty n’ Sons, Tasty n’ Alder, Mediterranean Exploration Company, Pollo Bravo and Shalom Y’all) has great business mentality. That’s amazing for him to be able to provide that for a city. I am in awe of that. But, for myself personally, I can’t let go of touching everything and can’t give up that much control. I just want my stuff to be small enough that I can be immersed in the details, the guest experience of a plate of food. ... At the end of the day, it’s about the focus and increasing the quality that’s important.

Tribune: Finally, with the closure of Smallwares and so many other top spots lately, are you worried Portland’s restaurant bubble is bursting?

Pomeroy: I’m glad Portland has been an incubator for people to be creative and do their thing. I owe my career to that support. I do feel like with any market, (people) are always interested in what’s new and what’s next. ... I do encourage people — when they have a place and love it, support it. Don’t just always try the next thing. ... Yes there’s a bubble. A lot of places are feeling the push. ... I was just talking to Gabe Rucker (of Le Pigeon), and both places are nine or 10 years old; we’re not the hot new thing anymore. It’s been about a certain level of reinvention. ... More and more, I’m thinking about things like what else I can do that’s creative and spirited, and keep focused on what I already have.

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