Portland Penny Diner is on money with cocktails on tap

Bread & Brew

When we heard a downtown bar was claiming to have the “largest selection of cocktails on tap,” we just couldn’t resist.

While the thought of cocktails on tap is both alluring, it’s also a bit surprising in today’s craft environment.

Isn’t the bartender’s flair and showmanship part of the draw to any watering hole? Does the tap take away from the experience?

We set out to investigate.

The Portland Penny Diner, Vitaly Paley’s 3-year-old casual breakfast and lunch joint, has always been steeped in nostalgia, serving some of Portland’s finest comfort foods to daytime crowds.

Adding a lineup of eight housemade craft cocktails on tap this summer is part of its move to grab some of the nightlife scene.

Customers order inside at the bar, where the “Pennydraft cocktail” taps look the same as any other taps. Don’t expect anything out of a tiki shack — these are straight-up classics.

The lineup includes everything from the Penny Old Fashioned and El Presidente, to the Mad Hatter (whiskey, lemon, sugar, absinthe) and Between the Sheets (gin, cointreau, brandy, lemon).

A daily punch also is available, but expect the polar opposite of tropical. One recent evening it was distinctly peaty, a mellow bourbon punch meant for summer afternoons.

For something stiffer, a whiskey and beer back is one of the “short orders” conveniently ready; two wines and four beers also are on tap.

Not to try one or three or four of the fry bread tacos here would be a sin. Think perfect drinking food — but prepared by a chef with James Beard and Iron Chef cred.

This is food of the gods: house-smoked pastrami with the works; soy-braised pork belly — banh mi-style; and the addictive Hangtown Fry, with fried oysters, eggs, bacon and spicy mayo.

Besides the elevated happy hour fare, Penny Diner has extended its hours and remodeled a bit, adding seating and red naugahyde banquettes — reminiscent of a late-night diner that serves up the best pancakes and hash browns in town after a night of revelry.

As the sun set, bachelorette parties started their parade, Timbers fans walked with quickened steps, tourists and locals sauntered by.

This is what happy hour in Portland is all about.

•••

I attended a spectacular food event this past weekend, both giving more meaning to the term happy hour.

Mark Bittman, New York Times journalist and salt guru who opened two salt shops in Portland — The Meadow on North Mississippi and Northwest 23rd, lended his star power to the James Beard Public Market project.

In a five-course “Salt” dinner at the Heathman, Bitterman explained the history and importance of salt in enhancing Oregon’s bounty of fresh ingredients: everything from Dungeness crab (with vanilla sea salt); stinging nettle risotto (Gulf Coast pecan-smoked salt); Anderson Ranch lamb loin (takesumi bamboo carbonized deep sea salt); and tapioca pudding with salted caramel and butterscotch (blue lavendar salt).

“If you think of Pioneer Courthouse Square as Portland’s living room,” Ron Paul told guests as he asked for their monetary support for the project, “the James Beard Public Market will be our kitchen, and pantry.”

@jenmomanderson