Kukai brings its ramen game to Portland

Yes, it literally was 100 degrees outside, but families with small children and grandmas sat sweltering, waiting 30 minutes or more for a table at the new Kukai Ramen in Northwest Portland.

They looked to be in a daze, chugging cups of cold water from the waitstaff to hydrate before ordering their steaming hot bowls of ramen.

That’s how good this place is. That’s how much Portland needs a killer ramen joint. That’s how big of a fan base Kukai has from its roots in Japan and three Seattle-area locations.

Because a perfect bowl of ramen is the stuff of dreams in Portland, surprisingly.

Curious ramen-heads will be glad to know that except for its still-pending liquor license (no cold Sapporo beer for now), Kukai doesn’t disappoint.

Since its June 1 opening, Japanese and non-Japanese ramen-istas have been swarming to fill their bellies with what I’d venture to call the best ramen in Portland.

That’s my humble opinion, as a kid who grew up on ramen (Hawaii’s version, saimin) and has been on a ramen quest around the Pacific Northwest for the past 20 years.

The star of the show here — across the parking lot from the new Market of Choice at Timberland Town Center — is the garlic tonkotsu ramen, named for the style of broth rather than the breaded pork cutlet that’s a staple of bento boxes.

Aptly described on the menu as having “specialty extra-rich shoyu-flavored pork broth with lots of garlic,” the broth is the soul of the bowl — each element coming together in mouth-watering harmony.

Springy noodles dance in a broth that is rich and flavorful without being cloudy. The secret? Kukai (which means air and water, to represent a balance of elements) roasts their bones before boiling the broth, similar to how the French make consommé.

Kukai claims to be the “first in the history of the ramen industry” to use this method — a bold claim, but who’s to argue?

Roasting the bones, they say, brings the depth of flavor and aroma to the stock, while removing any gamey animal scents. Kukai goes even further to prove ramen isn’t just an art, it’s a science: They maintain quality and consistency by measuring its density with a refractometer every day.

Who said good cooking wasn’t geeky?

The care in each dish is evident.

A perfect soft-boiled egg, thin slice of pork chashu, bamboo shoots and nori round out the garlic tonkotsu bowl.

The garlickiness is a flavor profile that newcomer Noraneko in Southeast Portland tries to create by giving guests raw garlic and a garlic crusher, with hardly the same effect.

At Kukai, the high ceilings, Japanese-inspired murals, clean lines and geometric patterns — the bar encircling the steamy open kitchen —reminds guests that they’re eating someplace that caters to modern tastebuds while still paying homage to the craft.

Since launching 10 years ago in Tokyo, Kukai founders say they spent two years certifying small, local manufacturers of everything from their salt to bonito and soy sauce.

That was around the time the ramen craze hit the United States, in part spurred by trendsetting hot spots like David Chang’s Momofuku in New York City.

There are now 23 Kukai locations worldwide (including four on the West Coast), as ramen has gained a cult following.

A big part of its broad appeal is the customizable offerings for every palate.

Need it less salty? There’s a low-sodium option.

There are at least a dozen ramen styles in the lineup, including the light shio (French sea salt, kelp and bonito base) and standard shoyu (with a sweet soy sauce they trace to the Yamaguchi prefecture — Japanese locavorism at its best). Want chicken or vegetables, miso or spicy? There’s a bowl of that, too.

Adventurous eaters should try the Tsukemen Dipping Noodles — a favorite style in Japan, which serves the cold noodles and toppings separate from the hot, dense broth.

They’re meant to be dipped, and slurped.

Noodles come in thin, wavy or flat, but if you’re not sure Kukai’s default is usually the best choice.

Bowls range from $8 to $12, and extra toppings — like greens, tofu, fishcake or woodear mushrooms — are $1.50 each.

Go for the $2 upgrade from pork chashu to fatty pork belly for a more heavenly treat. Extra noodles also are available for $2 to soak up every last sip of broth.

Most of Kukai’s long list of starters and side dishes ($3 to $9) also hit the mark. The karaage (Japanese fried chicken) is crisp and juicy with marinade, fried pillows of white meat lightly glazed for sweetness.

If the pieces were smaller, though, they’d be much more bite-size; it’s awkward using chopsticks as a knife.

The Japanese pork bun is another standout; a fluffy bun of tender pork belly and cucumber that comes with mini bottles of hoisin, mustard and mayo.

And Kukai does takoyaki (octopus dumplings) proud. The traditional street food here has just the right dough-to-squish ratio, appealing to the under-10 crowd. The deftly applied swirls of okonomiyaki sauce, mayo and bonito flakes make it as texturally rich as a fine sake.

For the nonramen lover (is there such a thing?), the rice dishes are comforting alternatives, with chicken, pork or tempura vegetables and shrimp on a large bed of rice with various toppings. They range from $4.50 (for a small bowl, perfect for kids) to $11.

If Portlanders embrace it, Kukai could signal the start of a food revolution in Beaverton. So far the Timberland Town Center’s affluent demographics have lured Clutch Prime Sausagery, Ava Roasteria and the soon-to-come Blu Olive Mediterranean Cuisine (formerly known as Blue Olive on Northwest 21st and Northeast Alberta).

It may be across the Great Divide known as Highway 26, but wouldn’t you drive 10 minutes for a stellar bowl of ramen?

@jenmomanderson

Kukai Ramen

11830 N.W. Cedar Falls Dr.

971-266-3188

Open 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Mon.-Sun.

kukai-ramen.com